Post by Chuck Hayward | May 10th, 2013

Not one, but two (!) vintages of ‘The Laird’

So what is it like to drink perfection? It’s a question frequently asked by consumers and the trade. The following story is about tasting 100-point ‘perfection’. And it begins many years ago…

In the summer of 2010, I heard that Torbreck, one of the Barossa Valley’s leading wineries, had released a new wine from the 2005 vintage called ‘The Laird’. The textured black label stood in stark contrast to the winery’s classic white paper label, indicating a significant departure from Torbreck’s usual range of wines. Indeed, ‘The Laird’ was exactly that, a wine geared for the super-premium market, occupied by legends like Penfolds ‘Grange’ and Henschke’s ‘Hill of Grace’ – with a price to match. I needed to know more.

So out went my feelers to gather more information on this new wine. What was it? What did the locals in Australia think? And, more importantly, would there be any available for JJ Buckley’s customers? Australian critics are often quick to knock down anything that smacks of “Parker-like” pretension and they like nothing better than knocking pretenders down a peg or two. But here I was reading words like “seriously good wine” and “striking for its precision and approachability.” Even Alder Yarrow, of vinography.com (no fan of bombastic wines), declared ‘The Laird’ to be “fantastic”, predicting “none of which will make it to the USA.”

There’s nothing I like more than a challenge. So I redoubled my efforts, contacted both the winery and the importer and secured some of the 60 bottles allocated to the US market. Then something happened. The Wine Advocate’s annual review of South Australian wines came out and ‘The Laird’ received 100 points. As expected, the wine sold out. Quickly. With no more to be had.

More importantly, I never got a chance to try ‘The Laird’ and neither did JJ Buckley’s wine staff. And given the price and scarcity, getting a sample would prove difficult. But as I said earlier, there’s nothing like a challenge. Somehow, some way, our staff would try this wine.

My Big ‘Break’

Six months later, I found myself in Australia as the guest international judge for the Hunter Valley Wine Show. With a weekend stay in Sydney in the plans, here was the perfect opportunity to secure a bottle to bring back to JJ Buckley’s offices. Calls were made, plans drawn up and everything looked good. On my last night in Australia, Stuart Knox, owner of the legendary wine bar, Fix St. James, made the hand off to me. Resisting temptation (while at the same time defying the tendency of gravity to bring bottles in my possession in contact with the sidewalk), my sample, wrapped only in its tissue paper, somehow made it safely through a debauched evening of dining and drinking.

Off I went to the airport, the bottle in my suitcase, safely wrapped in t-shirts and sweaters, along with some classic (and much less expensive) Hunter Valley semillons from Tyrrells and Andrew Thomas. Not a care in the world to be had, I settled into my seat and slept serenely across the Pacific.

The tarnished borrowed book. At least ‘The Laird’ has good taste in literature…?

So what happens? What do you think. Stained green sweaters, a loaned book with purple pages and a girlfriend who scolded, “I told you so.” And me, trying to figure out the cosmic message behind less expensive wines surviving the trip but the most expensive bottle breaking. In my suitcase. Leaving a stench that declared, “You failed.”

About ‘The Laird’

One of the secrets of Torbreck’s success lies in the fact that most of their wines are blended from a number of vineyards, spanning the length and breadth of the Barossa Valley. Sourcing fruit from plots of ancient vines is the secret to making the best wines in the Barossa. Gaining access to the best fruit in the valley requires an intimate knowledge of the land as well as personal connections with the families that have owned these treasured plots for generations. Over 25 different vineyards contribute their fruit to Torbreck’s portfolio, the oldest ones designated to the top cuvees like the famed ‘Run Rig’ or ‘The Steading’.

Malcolm Seppelt comes from a storied Barossa family that traces its lineage back to the valley’s early days. In 1958, he planted 5 acres of shiraz in Marananga, a subregion on the western edge of the Barossa. I first encountered Seppelt’s fruit when his wines were exported to America. At the time, the 1997 and 1998 Gnadenfrei shiraz was just another release from the well-priced, small boutique wineries brought over to America by importers like the Grateful Palate and Weygandt-Metzler. Not much was known about the winery, but (tellingly) Robert Parker declared that Gnadenfrei’s shiraz was akin to a “lush Pomerol.”

The wines from Gnadenfrei were initially made by Rolf Binder and later, Dave Powell was contracted to produce the wines. Coveting the fruit while fashioning the wine for Seppelt, Powell eventually arranged to purchase the crop starting with the 2005 harvest. He decided to use this fruit to make a signature wine and vowed to spare no expense.

One of the distinguishing aspects behind making ‘The Laird’ is its oak regime. Powell sourced barrels made by Laurent Ponsot, owner and winemaker at Burgundy’s Domaine Ponsot. They are both rare and expensive, possessing several unique qualities. Among them are hand-split staves that are twice as thick as the standard. These staves are cured in the open air for 4-5 years – much longer than usual. Sourced from the Allier forest, the wood is tightly-grained and slowly coopered, as you would expect from Laurent.

Otherwise, the vinification is pretty basic. Picked ripe, destemmed, fermented in wood and concrete, finished off in stainless and plopped into those expensive barrels for 36 months. Bottled unfiltered with a black label.

A ‘Laird’ in the Hand is Worth Two in the…Tasting

Andrew Tierney

Andrew Tierney is a good mate of mine who I have known for about 15 years. Formerly at McLaren Vale’s Wirra Wirra Winery, this wine industry veteran is now the sales director for Torbreck. It’s a job that sees him on the road for most of the year. And with wines in almost 40 countries, that road stretches across the globe.

He recently visited JJ Buckley’s offices to conduct a seminar for our staff. Capping off the long row of white-labeled wines on the table was a solitary black label, ‘The Laird’. At last. It was the 2008, recently awarded 100 points in the Wine Advocate and one of only three bottles flown over for Andrew’s trip. This was a rare preview, since it will not be released until this summer. I reminded Andrew about the story of the broken bottle and, realizing that I subsequently had still not tried the 2006, he produced a bottle from the car.

What a treat. Not just one ‘Laird’ but two. Two of the three vintages ever made. A 99-point and 100-point wine. Here was a chance to decide if ‘The Laird’ was an icon in the making or one that had already arrived. To the glasses we went:

2006 Torbreck ‘The Laird’
With a focused and intense bouquet, the aromas are slightly coiled up, waiting for the chance to unwind, even after a good, 24-hour decant. Crisp blackberry aromas mingle with espresso, mocha and lovely minerals. The palate really needed the time to breathe, revealing powerful, densely ripe black fruit. There’s a breadth and density here, yet it never goes over the top in terms of texture or intensity. Integrated acidity contributes to the exhilarating sense of restraint. Pure notes of cassis and blackberry abound, underscored by fresh vibrancy and soft edges. The lingering, fruit-filled finish smoothly masks the tannins. There’s the barest sense of viscosity at the core. Definitely a wine for the cellar, where time will help add breadth and length to the palate, while allowing the bouquet to further blossom.

2008 Torbreck ‘The Laird’
The bouquet is quite similar to the 2006. At this point there’s a touch more ripeness and intensity to the classic blackberry jam and smoke aromas, followed by nuances of camphor and stone. This is still a focused and unyielding nose that is not, at this point, very effusive. The bouquet notes continue onto the palate, with a little notch of increased fruit density. The shape of the wine also falls in line with the style of the 2006, both in the weightlessness of the fruit attack and the denser presence on the mid palate. There’s that same purity of fruit, the same tease of viscosity and that long fruit filled finish.  At the same time, the flavors here are more youthful and primary – the complexity will come with time. The 2008 also has slightly more weight and density at the backpalate, and the minerals and tannins on the finish are more apparent.

Torbreck lineup

How it Stacks Up

So what is it about ‘The Laird’ that places it among Australia’s greatest wines? For one, it speaks proudly to the Barossa Valley. Australia’s other shiraz icons clearly represent their appellations (like Jim Barry’s ‘Armagh’ from Clare Valley or the Clarendon Hills ‘Astralis’ from McLaren Vale) there is no doubt that ‘The Laird’ is a true, 100% expression of Barossa.

‘The Laird’ has its own sense of style. This is partly due to the vineyard’s site, but also largely due to Powell’s approach in the cellar. For one, ‘The Laird’ is all about balance and finesse. This is not a rich, thick wine – yet it’s not shy either. Despite an oak regimen that appears heavy handed, the fruit absorbs it all and then some, especially after some aeration. This contrasts with Penfolds ‘Grange’, where the vanillin oak has a greater presence and the palate usually shows much more richness and texture. With respect to site, ‘The Laird’ is a classic Barossa Valley floor wine, with a core of plush, plummy fruit that is almost viscous. This differs from another Australian icon, Henschke’s ‘Hill of Grace’ which is sourced from the cooler Eden Valley and characterized by classic black olive and bay leaf.

If there is any wine that comes close to what ‘The Laird’ represents, it’s Chris Ringland’s shiraz. This is quite interesting, for when Parker first tasted Ringland’s wine, he compared it to a 1947 Cheval Blanc – another Right Bank wine. The flavor, texture and oak presence of ‘The Laird’ is reminiscent of Ringland’s version, more dialed back, the edges slowly shaved away, like a kernel of rice destined for sake, revealing the wine’s essential core in a more understated manner.

What’s most impressive about tasting the two vintages side by side, is to see their stylistic similarity. They are so connected, with the differences arising from the vintage variation and the time so far in bottle. At this point, I prefer the 2006, as it is slightly more open and showing a bit more personality. The 2008 has more fruit, more power, but is more youthful and unevolved at this point. Yet one can sense where this vintage is headed.

Flirting with Perfection?

So what is it like to drink perfection? I have wrestled with that thought many times and recently adopted the US Supreme Court’s phrase, “I don’t know what it is, but I know it when I see it.” To me, a perfect wine leaves you speechless – at a loss for words as you try to describe the flavors and textures that swirl about the palate. The notepad is set aside, the pen put away as the search for words begins. And they don’t come.

Well, if you made it his far, you can probably surmise that ‘The Laird’ doesn’t quite reach the standard of perfection I have just described. But it’s a new project, with only three vintages so far, compared with over 50 for ‘Grange’ and ‘Hill of Grace’. There can be no doubt that this is superlative wine and that Powell is fully committed to ensuring it is ranked among the world’s best. Which is why there is no 2007 or 2011 release. For me, what makes ‘The Laird’ great is that it has its own identity and style, making a unique statement within Australia’s growing collection of iconic wines. Watching Powell shepherd this bottling over the upcoming vintages will be a treat for the mind and palate.

Now if Torbreck could only find a way to ensure that their bottles of ‘Laird’ can’t break, that (to me) would be perfect.

For a more in-depth look at ‘The Laird’ and other some of the terrific Torbrecks we tasted, there’s no better way than to see for yourself what this incredible producer can achieve:

• 2006   Torbreck ‘The Laird’ Shiraz
  2009   Torbreck ‘Run Rig’ Shiraz/Viognier
  2006   Torbreck ‘The Pict’ Mourvedre
  2006   Torbreck ‘Les Amis’ Grenache
  2008   Torbreck ‘The Steading’ Greneache/Shiraz/Mourvedre

Grand Bar Castan: Oldest Bar in Bordeaux

Where to Wine & Dine: Bordeaux

Post by Chuck Hayward | May 1st, 2013

For anyone traveling to the wine regions of France, it’s assumed (and rightly so), that an immersion into local cuisine should be part of the experience. After all, what is a trip to Burgundy without eating escargot or fine dining while visiting Champagne? So it goes without saying that a trip to Bordeaux will be incomplete unless you dip your toes into the local dining scene.

But the geography and the way business is conducted in Bordeaux conspire to make it difficult to indulge your appetite as thoroughly as your palate. And while the wines of Bordeaux resonate across the globe, the local cuisine has yet to achieve such recognition. A recent check through the latest Michelin Guide reveals far fewer starred establishments in Bordeaux than in Burgundy or Champagne.

Beautiful Downtown Bordeaux

Bordeaux’s geography is one reason why its food is not as well known. The city itself is quite pleasant, with a very charming downtown section full of narrow alleys and paths closed to traffic. There are plenty of small wine bars and cafes to experience and the action is pretty lively from early evening and into the night. The river itself presents a grand vista, with the new tram system and wide sidewalks providing a never-ending string of breathtaking views of the city, as well as of the bridges that link it to its neighbors across the water. Old warehouses have been renovated and a new modern bridge just opened, bringing even more energy to the riverside in a renovation reminiscent of San Francisco’s Embarcadero.

But the wine industry, for the most part, is located far away from the city itself. Many negociants have offices downtown, but tastings are often conducted at their new warehouses located in suburban industrial parks. If you want to visit the wine country, it’s almost an hour to Margaux, where the Haut Medoc wineries begin in earnest and an hour should you decide to travel east to the Right Bank. As in other wine producing areas, one would expect a plethora of places to eat in and around the wineries themselves, but it is surprisingly quiet. Just finding a morning coffee and croissant in Margaux or Pomerol (or some palate-cleansing afternoon ale) can prove difficult, let alone a small café for lunch. This lack of culinary infrastructure is due to the fact that wineries in Bordeaux are more likely to wine and dine their guests at the chateaux, rather than have them eat at a local establishment.

Enjoying a pastis at Grand Bar Castan

A Night in Bordeaux…On a Budget

With all the time travelling to and fro, from the city to wineries and back, it’s often hard to find time to explore the downtown. I can say this from experience, as JJ Buckley as a team has rarely spent much time in the city during our trips to en primeur. And with the price of Bordeaux wine these days, one might want to save money and eat out on a budget. So here’s a guide to one night in Bordeaux (with your wallet in mind…):

To start the evening, make it over to Grand Bar Castan (2 Quai de la Douane), perfectly situated along the river and at the entrance to the city’s old sector. As the oldest bar in Bordeaux, there’s a Belle Epoque feeling to the café, with its stained glass sign and tiled floors, but the interior’s quirky decor adds a decidedly contemporary flair. Sit outside on the terrace with a pastis and enjoy the view of the river and the Ponts de Piere and Saint-Jean, watching the colors change as the sun sets behind you. If there’s inclement weather, hang out at the bar and chat with the friendly staff.

Bar a Vin

If wine sets your evening’s tempo, head to one of the best deals for drinking wine on the planet. The Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux (CIVB) is the marketing and promotional agency for Bordeaux and they operate a wine bar in the center of the city. Housed in a beautifully remodeled 18th century building, the Bar a Vin (3 Cours du 30 Juillet) pours over 20 different wines in Speigelau stemware for 2-8 euros per glass. These insane prices encourage you to experiment with some of the region’s lesser known wines, such as sparkling Bordeaux or clairet (a dark-hued rose that is the basis for what the English term ‘claret’). The majestic room is supplemented by small alcoves where you can have a more intimate experience and if you’re hungry, order up a plate of charcuterie or cheese knowing that two glasses of wine will cost less than your nibbles.

The (incredibly fairly-priced) menu at Bar a Vin

If there is any theme to be found when dining in Bordeaux, it revolves around beef. So once you’re done at the Bar a Vin, hop across the street for a great deal at L’Entrecote (4 Cours du 30 Juillet). Part of a chain that includes locations in France as well as a new place in New York, this no reservations restaurant is so popular that there’s always a line, usually dominated by locals. The menu is simple: full platters of sliced beef saturated in a proprietary sauce composed of butter and spices along with a mound of homemade frites and their house red (Bordeaux, of course). The wait’s not long – there are three floors of diners all eating heartily and cheaply. If you avoid dessert, two people can get out for fewer than 50 euros.

Steak frites at l’Entrecote

Another option that’s popular among locals and wine industry types is La Brasserie Bordelaise (50 Rue Saint-Rémi), centrally located in Bordeaux’s old section. Always packed with an active bar and an expansive series of small dining rooms, the focus is on beef (try the excellent tartare) but there are more options available including fowl, fish and pastas. The wine list includes a wide range of Bordeaux along with a small selection of other French wines.

Most folks might call it a night at this point but for those who want a nightcap, Cafe Brun (45 Rue Saint-Rémi) is a required visit. This old bar, located on one of the busiest streets in the old town, is always packed. With its youthful crowd, it has a vibrant feel as local university students listen to groovy music while drinking Belgian ales, shots or Champagne.

For a night you may never forget (or remember…)

It’s not hard to strike up a conversation with patrons or the DJ manning the decks. Whether you spend the night dancing on the bar, or simply enjoying a nightcap before heading back to the hotel, you can hit the highway for your next wine adventure knowing you experienced at least one night like a Bordelaise local.

Below are five wines you could expect to see on a wine list at a Bordeaux bistro…  But we’ll save you the airfare to France when you buy them from JJ Buckley!!

• 2009 Clos Floridene Blanc (Graves)
• 2011 Domaine de Chevalier Rose (Bordeaux)
• 2008 Bouscat ‘Cuvee La Gargone’ (Bordeaux Superieur)
• 2009 Chateau Talbot ‘Connetable de Talbot’ (St. Julien)
• 2008 Chateau Meyney (St. Estephe)

Check out our other blog recommendations for dining out in New York, Paris and Burgundy.

Post by Chuck Hayward | April 17th, 2013

Definitely not running late to our appointment…for lunch

Visiting en primeur is not only a test of mind and palate – it’s also a trial in organizational skills (or occasionally, lack thereof). With so many tastings and wineries to visit, all spread across the wide swath of land that makes up Bordeaux, it’s imperative that appointments are scheduled in such a way that one spends more time tasting than travelling. It can take an hour to go from Bordeaux to Chateau Calon Segur in St. Estephe. If your next appointment is at Chateau d’Issan in Margaux, you’ll need 40 minutes – more if you get stuck behind a tractor. A lesson learned the hard way…

So JJ Buckley makes sure to focus our appointments on each bank to lessen travel times. Once we finished with our cabernet-themed Left Bank travels, we zoomed off to our base in Libourne to sample the merlot-dominant wines of St. Emilion and Pomerol. And thanks to the fact that we could leave our hotel and arrive at Petrus’s door in about ten minutes, we were confident we could taste more during the second half of en primeur. Good thing too, because early reports had indicated that the best wines would be found on the Right Bank.

St. Emilion – always a sight for sore eyes

And the early scuttlebutt turned out to be true. Since 2008, each year has seen Bordeaux suffer through bouts of intense heat with little rainfall. For periods of 10-30 days, those factors combined to place added stress on vines. As a result, vine growth shut down, grapes shriveled and yields declined. The grapes that fared best had soils that allowed vines access to water throughout these drought conditions. The water retentive clay and limestone soils found on the Right Bank are where merlot fares best. As such, the region was perfectly suited to provide its vines with just enough water during the hot weather.

What is most interesting is how the merlot on the Right Bank showed differently over the past five vintages. In 2009 and 2010, the wines of St. Emilion were ripe and jammy, almost over the top. More balance came through in 2011. In 2012, the integrated acids that are proving a hallmark of this vintage, helped the best St. Emilions avoid the heavy textures and high alcohol found in ’09 and ‘10. This year, the top St. Emilions are balanced and fresh, with medium weight and an approachable palate structure. Still, there were a few wines that retained the opulent styles of vintages past, but even these were reined in and more balanced thanks to the year’s conditions.

Pomerol

In Pomerol, it’s always about the tannins. 2009 found tannins with spiky textures and a roasted quality that often left a disjointed impression. The finely-grained tannins in 2010, however, proved in-balance with the fruit, making Pomerol one of the top appellations that year. 2012 (and also 2011) found tannins that were so fine and precise that they seemed to add an exciting nuance to the palate. As with other appellations this year, there wasn’t exactly uniformity among the wines of Pomerol, but the peaks to be found were the highest in Bordeaux. The tension and length of flavors were also intense and delineated, often providing the thrilling tasting experiences found in the best vintages.

JJ Buckley’s upcoming vintage report will reveal our top wines for these regions – stay tuned.

Post by Alex Fondren | April 16th, 2013

Bordeaux 2012: An Insider’s Look at This Year’s Pricing and Strategies

Post by Chuck Hayward | April 15th, 2013

JJB’s Ryan Moses and Jeff Loo take notes on the vintage

My fourth consecutive visit to Bordeaux en primeur was accompanied by the usual meetings with negociants and wineries. It wasn’t long before I began to pick up on the topical trends that began to occur with every conversation. At first, there’s always a discussion of the weather – understandable given the way it shapes the quality of the region’s star commodity. Then the chatter turns quickly to the quality of the recent vintage. If there’s a bit more time, everyone asks how Bordeaux is selling in China and America.

But eventually, the discussion turns to the topic of utmost importance: the pricing for the new vintage. It’s here where things get interesting. Negociants inquire about what pricing it will take for the upcoming campaign to be a success, while at the same time buyers are asking around as well, trying to ascertain how prices will pan out for this vintage. The conversations can get quite animated – strong opinions are posited while each party tries to discern the mindsets of chateau owners and wine buyers. The 2012 vintage has done nothing to change this ritual. If anything, the discussion about pricing has been more open than in the past. Rather than playing poker this year, the cards have been laid out on the table.

In our appointments with negociants, many claim to have recommended that chateau owners consider some severe discounting for this year’s en primeur offerings if they are to have a chance at success. Many wineries still have stock from the more expensive 2010 vintage, while the 2011s currently in barrel saw little demand when they were offered last year. In addition, consumers can buy older vintages at pricing that rivals the prices for ’09s and ’10s, which could lessen the demand for the younger 2012s.

Lineup at an appellation tasting

The pricing target cited most frequently by Bordeaux insiders has been the futures pricing for the 2008 vintage. Those prices represented a severe drop compared to the 2007s, a very difficult vintage that saw high prices for variable quality and few standout wines. The low prices and pent-up demand made the 2008 en primeur campaign quite successful.

The inside word is that there will be lower prices compared to last year; it’s just a question of how much discounting we’ll see. In confidential discussions with some negociants, it was apparent that a few chateaux have already set their prices, well before last week’s en primeur activities began. Agreement on pricing with significant discounts at this point already represents a significant step, and could encourage other wineries to follow suit.

One big question concerns the timing of this year’s campaign. Many negociants predict a quick one, with wineries sending out pricing to the negociants as soon as tomorrow (three chateaux offered their pricing today, marking the traditional first day of sales). The idea will be to sell as much as possible before Robert Parker releases his scores at the end of the month. Others argue that if the discounts are uniformly high across the board, and released at the same time, it will demonstrate that Bordeaux is listening to the market.

Another possible twist to this year’s campaign revolves around the role of the first growths. Traditionally, the prices for the premier grand cru classes and the top wines of the Right Bank come out later, often when about 60-75% of the chateaux have been offered by the negociants. The theory is that wineries who release their wines late in the campaign are trying to get higher prices in a battle of one-upmanship with their neighbors. Additionally, by waiting until others set their prices, the last wineries can better gauge the market and set a price that will ensure the wines will sell, while also maximizing profits.

The press eagerly awaits the verdict on pricing

Some negociants have predicted that the first growths may try to set the pricing for the entire campaign by releasing their wines very early. If they take a significant hit on their pricing, it will encourage other wineries to follow. The kicker here is how much wine will be offered on the first tranche. The first growths could cover their discounted pricing by holding some wine back and releasing more at higher prices if the first batch sells out quickly. It will be interesting to see if this theory plays out in the next few weeks.

While this year’s discounts will determine whether the 2012s will sell at all, the ability to get allocations of this year’s top wines will prove to be even more important. Pomerol is on a roll, producing some of Bordeaux’s best releases for four years in a row. Most of the top Pomerols are made in minute quantities, so merely finding them is the main problem; especially in 2012, with yields down 10-15% on average. If prices for these wines drop significantly, the smart money will snap them up quickly. Don’t say we didn’t warn you!!

Check out our other recent blogs from Bordeaux en primeur here.

Post by Chuck Hayward & Alex Fondren | April 11th, 2013

Margaux vines

En primeur week is approaching the halfway point today and it is around this time when initial impressions turn into comfortable assumptions. Us wine professionals are always searching for threads and themes that we can weave together into a story that might interest our readers.

JJ Buckley is getting ready to leave the reaches of the Medoc to get acquainted with the new releases the Right Bank. But before we venture into unchartered territories, this looks like a good opportunity to take a retrospective look at the 2012s from the Medoc.

St. Estephe
The difficulties of the vintage can clearly be seen in St. Estephe. Cabernet in 2012 was especially problematic with problems ranging from herbal characteristics to excessive tannins. If there is anything that defines the wines from St. Estephe, it is cabernet sauvignon. There was a wide range of quality to be found here, with many wines showing unripe characteristics or blocky tannins. The best captured the medium weighted balance and purity of fruit and avoided trying to make a powerful statement.

A St. Estephe success story in 2012: Cos d’Estournel

Pauillac
This commune is often considered to be the bellwether appellation of the Medoc given that it has three of the first growths as well as a number of other properties that command attention. One of the hallmarks of 2012 has been the wide range of quality that exists within each appellation and Pauillac has shown this trait quite clearly. There are wines of exceptional power and complexity being made next to neighbors whose releases are in danger of highlighting unripe flavors and bouquets. This could be due to the large amounts of cabernet sauvignon in most Pauillacs, a grape that suffered greatly in 2012.

St. Julien
This appellation has been on a roll for the past few years with wines that show incredible complexity along with power and grace. It seemed as if St. Julien could do no wrong until the 2012s came along. It is here that the vintage’s main problem, that of significant and pronounced tannins, comes to the fore. Many of the wines we tried had firm tannins that were out of balance with the medium bodied palate profile. Wines lacked the complexity of flavor and texture that has helped this region excel over the last few years. Here’s hoping that some attention in the cellar will bring these wines around.

Sampling dozens of wines from each appellation at a marathon tasting

Margaux

After a series of relatively unexciting performances over the last few years, the Margaux appellation has come back with a vengeance, producing wines of character while avoiding the pitfalls of the vintage. Perhaps due to the higher percentage of merlot that can be found here, there was a creaminess and purity of fruit to be seen in the top Margaux. Here were wines of elegance – drinkable and well made. The best lacked the green, bitter tannins of their neighbors while avoiding herbal nuances on the nose and palate. Even more surprising is that many underperforming domaines turned out some excellent wines in 2012. Margaux clearly wowed everyone from JJ Buckley and turned out to be one Bordeaux’s significant success stories in 2012.

Post by Chuck Hayward & Alex Fondren | April 9th, 2013

JJ Buckley’s (very dapper) Geoffrey Binder poses in front of Chateau Margaux

There can be no better way to dive into the long grind that is en primeur week in Bordeaux than to drive up and down the D2 highway on the Left Bank of the Medoc. Popping in and out of the parking lots and drawing rooms of some of the wine world’s most prestigious properties can be quite a ‘tough job’, but it’s all in the hope of finding the real story behind the latest vintage. Each visit can reveal exciting discoveries or disappointing heartbreaks – either way you are assured of an emotional response when tasting these young wines. And that is exactly what happened yesterday as JJ Buckley’s staff descended on the top chateaux of Bordeaux to taste the newly assembled 2012 releases.

Tasting the wines from some of Bordeaux’s most revered properties is no easy task, yet it must be said that it’s quite exciting all the same. It’s a chance to see the sum of the wine industry’s best talents and resources put to use in making some of the world’s best wines.

What makes the 2012 vintage that more interesting is that the growing conditions made it difficult to produce great wines. Because, when you think about it, anyone should be able to make fantastic wine when the weather is great. It’s when nature throws a curve ball that wineries must dig deep in making the best wines possible given the conditions. The Medoc’s first growths are required visits to see how the best wineries fared in 2012.

And speaking of digging deep, the rash of new construction projects first witnessed over the past few years on the Right Bank is now in full bloom in the Medoc. Cranes dot the skyline and many of the wineries we have visited should require hardhats given all the work that is going on! But more on that in JJ Buckley’s upcoming report on 2012 Bordeaux.

Margaux’s gorgeous 2012′s

Chateau Margaux

Starting at the southern end of the Haut Medoc, Chateau Margaux never fails to take your breath away. The beautifully landscaped property and its majestic chateau casts a warm glow any time you have the chance to visit. Never resting on their laurels, winemaker Paul Pontallier was eager to point out their latest renovation projects, a restoration of an old orangerie and new underground cellars are the latest efforts.

A visit to Margaux is also a great way to learn how the growing season transpired. Listening to the Pontalliers gives anyone great insight into the way the winery responded to the challenges of the year. And Margaux did an admirable job with their 2012 grand vin. The winery’s style is one of finesse with an elegant framework and fine grained tannins. Many members of the JJ Buckley team found the new wine to be a classic Margaux and their favorite of the Medoc first growths.
Chateau Latour

Continuing up the D2 highway, you encounter the first of Pauillac’s first growths just as you pass out of St. Julien. Past a locked gate and travelling down a path in a sea of vines, you also see evidence of energetic construction. The winery’s offices are now in temporary buildings out of sight from the main road as cranes hover over the main complex.

Latour’s generous lineup

Change at Latour is not confined to new buildings. The winery has taken the controversial step of opting out of the futures program and only releasing their wines once they are deemed ready to drink. At en primeur, you can expect to taste the wines that will be sold in a few months but the big question was what wines would be poured at Latour?

It turned out to be even more wine than usual. Before us were six glasses, the usual array of wines produced last year along with wines aged at the winery and just released last month. Past vintages of Latour’s grand vin have been spectacular showing the chateau’s classic style of power and richness. At the last three en primeurs, the wines could be consumed right away, thanks to the wines’ expressive complexity and seamless textures. Alas, 2012 could see Latour making a wine below the standards set by the last three years. But we will not know for a while – the plan is to release the wine to the market in 12-13 years, so tune in later. In the meantime, the re-released 1995 Latour is ready to drink – so pop those corks soon!

Chateau Lafite Rothschild

As you pass through the town of Pauillac on your way north up the main road, the next premier grand cru classe domaine is Lafite-Rothschild. This historic property is tucked away off the D2 and is quiet and understated – especially when compared to the many other chateaux in the Medoc. And that is probably best reflected in their wines. Lafite is never about power and boldness. Those qualities can be more easily found at Latour or Mouton. The best Lafites have a sense of grace and finesse – they are lithe and slippery in their shape.

The problem in a year like 2012 is that the fruit must be perfectly ripe to avoid any perception of unripeness. Picking at lower sugars can enhance herbaceous and vegetal qualities in a wine. And in this vintage we are seeing many wines with spicy herbal notes on the nose and green tannins.

This year, Lafite has fashioned a very good wine that avoids the pitfalls of the harvest. The new wine highlights Lafite’s focus on purity of fruit and elegant structure. Medium bodied, the sample we tried had a very long finish with the faintest tannins subsumed by the fruit. This is not a heavyweight but of like a more pretty style of Pauillac, this one is for you. But this opinion was far from unanimous. Like many wines we have come across so far, opinions are divided and the debates are vigorous. Expect this Lafite to engender a fair share of controversy.

Mouton

Chateau Mouton Rothschild

Where a lot of the construction work at the first growth wineries has begun recently, it always seems as if there is something happening at Mouton. But the day’s rain meant workers stayed home, so the grounds were mainly populated by tasters waiting for the traditional golf cart ride between the offices and the tasting room.

The wines of Mouton rival Latour in their quest for richness. Where there may be more juiciness in the best Latours, the fruit at Mouton emphasizes structure. One of the traits we are seeing so far from the wines of the Left Bank is the high level of tannins. Mouton’s challenge was to ensure that those tannins remained in balance. At the same time, 2012 is looking like a year of medium-weighted wines (which would mean that Mouton’s ’12 could end up a bit light). No need to worry, as this year’s release is classic Mouton with richness and complexity and supple tannins underneath. Another contender for best 2012 first growth by the JJ Buckley team!!

Post by Chuck Hayward & Alex Fondren | April 7th, 2013

Jeffrey Davies’ 2012 Lineup

The real heart of en primeur week starts tomorrow (Monday) and continues on through Friday. So to avoid rushing in, trying to find our bearings at winery appointments and large tastings, it’s better to arrive a few days early and meet up with our friends in the business to gain some first impressions. And there’s no one better to meet than Jeffrey Davies, owner of Signature Selections - a negociant and wine marketing outfit based just outside the city center of Bordeaux.

Tasting with Davies is quite a treat. He always has a broad range of wines to sample, whether they’re well-priced Bordeaux appellation releases or new micro-cuvees from St. Emilion. But Jeffrey’s true value comes from his close ties to the local winemaking scene. He is quick to offer his observations on the vintage along with the latest news and gossip, making our conversations with him lively and engaging.

The man, the myth, the legend: Jeffrey Davies

The early word is that the 2012 vintage is a challenging year and Davies did not dispel that notion. The difficulties that occurred during the growing season have been well documented (click here for our recent blog post about Bordeaux’s weather in 2012), but he contends that a number of wineries handled these issues quite well. Whether it was via the fortune of owning good sites or hard work in the cellar, he believes that many 2012 releases will provide plenty of pleasurable drinking over the next ten years – wines to drink while the classic vintages of the past decade (’05, ’09, ’10) take their deserved slumber in the cellar.

After tasting through the wines in Jeffrey’s garage yesterday, on what proved to be a cold April evening, it would be hard to find any fault with what he said. Having read that merlot was the star of the vintage and that many cabernet grapes were picked before they ripened fully, we expected to see wines showing green or herbal characters. Surprisingly, across the board, many of the wines we tried were medium to medium-full bodied with just the right amount of acidity to add lift to the fruit expression. Unripe qualities were hard to discern with Jeffrey’s wines.

2012 Gracia

As expected, there were some top wines to be found on the right bank. The 2012 Gracia was a revelation, displaying a renewed sense of elegance and freshness while the estate’s second wine, Les Angelots de Gracia, was no slouch either. Haut Brisson and Clos Saint Julien from St. Emilion were already showing an extra level of complexity that separated their wines from the pack. We’ll also be keen to retry Pomerol’s rising star, Feytit-Clinet later in the week.

But quality was not just limited to Pomerol or St. Emilion. A revival taking place at Pauillac’s Chateau Pedesclaux found favor among JJ Buckley staff, while the complex and harmonious sample from Chateau Labegorce of Margaux was one of our favorites. It’s clear that writing-off the wines from the Left Bank might be a bit premature.

Jeffrey providing an in-depth look into the vintage

If there are broader concerns to be made from this admittedly limited sampling of wines, it’s that a number did have some rather grippy tannins that left a drying sensation on the palate. The best wines of the night had more finely-grained tannins that were in harmony with their wine’s fruit presence. Most wines had well appointed acids that created a sense of freshness, especially in St. Emilion. But one could see how acid levels could add a jarring note in the wrong hands.

Of course, there are two big questions that everyone is asking. For one, is anyone coming to Bordeaux this year? Negociants we have talked with are very pleased with the number and quality of the buyers that have chosen to attend en primeur, not only from the traditional markets in America and Europe but also from emerging regions in Asia and South America. We’ll get a sense of attendance this week.

More importantly, everyone agrees that for this year’s futures campaign to be successful, the prices for the 2012s will have to come down relative to the past three vintages. A number of negociants have predicted that the wines could find a market if pricing approaches the levels of the 2008 vintage. Only time will tell if the wineries will heed that message. Here’s hoping they do, as there could truly be some very nice wines this year.

Post by Chuck Hayward | April 4th, 2013

Once again, the beginning of April finds us at JJ Buckley finalizing our plans to visit Bordeaux and participate in the annual en primeur tastings. In our seventh visit to the region, we’ll do what we do best – taste the latest vintage and enable our buyers and fine wine specialists to discover first-hand how these young wines fare. Our schedule is full of visits to wineries and negociants and we’ll be adding on a day of educational seminars to get an even more in-depth understanding about Bordeaux.

You can keep up to date with our trip by subscribing to JJ Buckley’s blogs here. We’ll also be posting pictures and updates on Facebook and, for the first time, you can check us out on Twitter. Follow us at @JJBuckleyWines or use the hashtag #JJBatBDX to get the latest info on the wines we’ll be tasting.

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The Weather

The importance of Bordeaux in the world of wine has prompted government agencies, merchants and wineries to collect massive amounts of data over the centuries. At first, information focused on the calendar, collecting dates of budbreak, flowering, veraison and harvest. Records of these dates go back for centuries and have formed the foundation for comparative analysis of various vintages.

Cabernet budbreak

As the science of winemaking and viticulture has grown, the information that’s been accumulated has become even more detailed. Today, data on bunch weights, malic acids and tannin levels are just some of the measurements that can be found in harvest reports prepared by professors, winemakers and wine writers. Nowadays, the Bordeaux tasting notes of many critics contain much more data points than in the past.

All of this information has been collected in an attempt to see if there are similarities in past years that can help growers and winemakers with the harvest at hand. In looking at the details about the 2012 growing season, the only conclusion that can be drawn from this harvest is that it was unlike last year’s. Or any prior. In fact, looking at many of these harvest reports over the years, it’s clear that there may be similar vintages, but it’s rare that two are exactly the same.

The Growing Year in 2012

The winter in Bordeaux was relatively uneventful, with a scattering of unseasonably cold temperatures in February. The first problems arrived in April, when twice the average amount of rain fell during the initial budbreak period. Afterwards, cooler temperatures and a lack of sunshine helped to delay budbreak for a few weeks. Both of these conditions contributed to an outbreak of mildew in many vineyards.

The period before flowering saw average temperatures and adequate rainfall; everything looked good by early June. The delayed budbreak, however, translated into flowering that was about two weeks later than average. The first week of June saw a cool, wet spell that contributed to a poor fruit set. This led to uneven ripening on bunches and shot berries as the grapes began to mature.

The summer months of July and August experienced rain and temperatures that were pretty much on average with veraison, occurring over a longer period than usual. Late August and September brought very hot temperatures and very little rain, prompting many vines to shut down shoot growth and slow down ripening. Vines planted on water-retaining limestone and clay soils fared best in handling the drought conditions.

September passed with temperatures that were above average, along with plenty of sunshine to propel the ripening of fruit. The last week of the month, however, saw three days of rain just as wineries started to pick their merlot. Cool temperatures followed and there were blooms of rot that began to appear in some vineyards. Most of the grapes were picked by the time another series of large storms descended on the region in the middle of October.

How Winemakers Responded

The optical sorting machine (aka the 2012 winemaker’s best friend)

The cool and rainy weather in April and the mildew that followed required growers to pay attention to their vineyards. Chemicals had to be applied once symptoms appeared on leaves and later during flowering. The poor flowering that came after the rains were most detrimental to cabernet sauvignon and merlot, setting the stage for small bunches with fewer berries.

The uneven ripening that occurred (because of the poor fruit) set resulted in uneven coloring during veraison. Bunches with excessive green grapes would have to be sacrificed so that other grapes could ripen. Thanks to the poor set and smaller berries from the drought-like summer, dropping fruit proved to be a critical economic decision.

The hot and dry summer months also had a major impact on the year’s harvest. Young vines and plots with free draining soils experienced too much stress, eventually shutting down and ceasing to grow. Much like the last few years, merlot from the Right Bank benefited from the vine’s preference for clay and limestone soils.

The rain that arrived just as harvest began required wineries to pick their grapes quickly, before rot spread throughout the vineyards. Those wineries that did not drop fruit found it difficult to ripen their grapes and were forced to pick under-ripe fruit as the conditions deteriorated.

Once again, those wineries that invested in optical sorters saw a big payoff with this harvest. This was especially the case for cabernet sauvignon that had to be picked early because of advancing rot. It also suffered most from uneven ripening.

To really see how well the wineries responded to the weather in 2012, we’ll have to taste the wines. And that’s exactly what we’ll do – starting this Saturday. Stay tuned!

Post by Chuck Hayward | March 28th, 2013

Howell Mountain Vines

Just east of downtown Napa, the small area of Coombsville was recently designated as Napa Valley’s 16th subregional AVA. Each of Napa’s subregions is distinct, showcasing a unique climate and combination of soils, perfectly reflected in the wines. At the same time, Napa’s patchwork of AVAs provides a window into the valley’s diversity, belying the misconception that the region is homogenous.

This year marks the 30th anniversary of Napa Valley’s first subregional AVAs. The first to be designated entirely within Napa Valley was Howell Mountain. With its unique attributes, it it’s no surprise that the mountain was the first to be distinguished from other appellations. Altitude is what makes Howell Mountain so distinctive – grapes must be grown above 1400 feet in elevation to be eligible for its AVA status. This altitude lies above the morning fog layer that covers the valley floor, allowing for more sunshine during the day. This also allows for cooler average temperatures, often up to ten degrees lower than down the slopes, which preserves vital acidity.

The soils of Howell Mountain also contribute to the region’s idiosyncratic wine styles. Most of the dirt here is of volcanic origin and very low in nutrients. Tufa soils (decomposed white volcanic ash) and iron-laced clay loams combine with rocks and stones to allow for good drainage, important here because the mountain gets twice as much rainfall as on the valley floor. All of these qualities act to reduce vigor in the vineyards, creating small bunches and even smaller berries.

Cakebread’s Howell Mountain Release

Howell Mountain has a viticultural history as rich and varied as the more well-known growing areas on the valley floor. Less than 10-15 years after wineries first popped up along the stretch of land between Yountville and Rutherford, new vineyards were planted up in the eastern hills of the Vaca Ranges. By the 1870s, a number of growers received considerable acclaim for the fruit grown on “The Hill”, the name that locals first ascribed to the mountain. As more vines were planted, producers in the valley soon began to source fruit from Howell Mountain to blend with grapes on the valley floor. Small wineries were soon constructed on the hill, most of which fell into disrepair after prohibition. Many of these “ghost wineries” have been rejuvenated; Ladera and La Jota are housed in recently renovated structures.

The AVA is very small, there are only 600 acres planted among the 14,000 in the appellation. Cabernet sauvignon is the grape that is most closely linked to Howell Mountain and the region’s climate and soils help to create a unique style of the variety.

Zinfandel is the other grape that has brought attention to the mountain with a legacy stretching back to the last few decades of the 19th century. Small amounts of merlot and petite sirah make up the rest of the viticulture on Howell Mountain along with the odd sauvignon blanc or chardonnay.

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The Howell Mountain Vintners & Growers Association recently sponsored a tasting in San Francisco, which afforded JJ Buckley’s staff a chance to look at a broad swath of wines from a wide range of vintages. Cabernet sauvignon turned out to be the focus of the tasting and we had a chance to take a close look at a number of releases from 2009 and 2010 along with a few older wines here and there.

One of the Top Wineries on “The Hill”

The tasting turned out to be a revelation, as the terroir of Howell Mountain was clearly evident in each wine. The vintages spoke clearly as well, with the 2009s offering up ripe and juicy fruit while the 2010s showed the elegance and precision that is proving the hallmark of this harvest.

What was most remarkable was finding the distinct minerality that came through on the palate and bouquet. A pronounced iron component could be detected on the nose, wrapped by black currant fruit aromas. The finishes on these wines also showcased the mineral components, as they mingled with fine grained tannins. Whether young or with a few years of bottle age, the cabs from the mountain offered quite the contrast to the more plush textures found in cabernets from down the hill. It’s no wonder that Howell Mountain has distinguished itself as one of Napa’s most unique subregions.

JJ Buckley’s Top Five Howell Mountain Cab Picks

1st Place:  2009 Dunn “Howell Mountain”
2nd Place: 2008 Charles Krug “Cold Springs“
Tied for 3rd:
2009 CADE
2010 O’Shaughnessy
2009 Arkenstone “Obsidian”